Camerino - Percy St, W1
Review by Veronica Blake
ALL TOO often we read glowing reviews of the same restaurants in newspaper supplements and glossy magazines.
The same names crop up again and again. Locatelli, Sheekey’s, the Wolsley, and you begin to wonder why they continually manage to garner such column inches.
Is their success measured more by their ability to attract celebrity clients who ensure a mention in the paper next day? Or is it more the result of highly-paid PR’s, who have key journalists on speed dial?
We keep reading that Madonna or Cherie and Tony rave about Locanda Locatelli, famous for its truffles. They are fortunate to afford them. A meal there costs about a week’s salary.
I recently attended a dinner at the Churchill Hotel. Hosted by the Roma Lazio region of Italy. Presided over and prepared by Locatelli.
I can honestly say it was one of the worst Italian meals I’ve ever eaten. So whether Mr Locatelli himself actually prepared it is quesitonable.
The main course was Salt Cod, known in Rome as Saltinboca. The fish was very salty and was covered in a tasteless tomato sauce. One bite was enough.
Our dessert was like something you’d buy for a 50p snack in Benjy’s. Sickly sweet, rock hard and with a few currents. I don’t know if Giorgio had personally cooked this meal but if he had, then shame on him. He needs to go back to catering college!
More than likely he pocketed the fee for the night and farmed the cooking out to a sous chef who, if this meal was anything to go by, had never set foot on Italian soil.
While we are bombarded with hype of the star chefs and their celebrity clientelle, what chance to the little restaurants stand?
The family-run trattorias where food is prepared with great care, and who’s owners cannot afford an expensive PR lady to speed dial the food writers.
One such little gem is where real Italian food is prepared with love in the kitchen. Situated in Percy Court, just off Tottenham Court Road.
When a restaurant is full on a Monday night it’s always a good sign. As if on cue the owner, Paulo, strolled into the theme of Goodfellas. Like a smartly dressed Joe Pesci, he greeted each customer, shook their hands and recommended his favourite dishes.
The Americans at the next table were thrilled to bits and told them of their recent visit to Venice.
It was the coldest night of the year and I could have eaten a wild boar (as was featured with Ragout). However, not meaning to be greedy, I decided to share a starter of Organic Chestnut Tagliatelle with mixed mushrooms with my friend.
It was delicious. The half portions were as large as a main course and absolutely delicious tasting as wholesome as organic should be.
The roasted monkfish with green beans and cherry tomatoes was cooked to perfection. Tender and fluffy. Meat, fish and vegetables are bought fresh each morning from Smithfield, Billingsgate, New Convent Garden and it shows.
The Roos de Salento Puglian red was the perfect accompaniment. The wine list is extensive, covering every region of Italy from Toscana to Abbruzzo, Lombardia and Sicily. I counted 19 Grappas, including four which were oak-aged.
Camerino is not plush by any means. The décor could be described as Aubrey Beardsley meets David Lynch. There’s a Twin Peaksy element to it.
White walls with squiggles of artistic flourish as though someone had a sudden flash of inspiration. Bright red curtains provide a stark contrast to the white walls.
But it’s the food which shines at Camerino and Paulo who’s a
real star. It’s as though he had walked off the set of The Godfather or Goodfellas.
The chocolate pudding, from which oozes a warm chocolate sauce, is highly recommended. On frosty, foggy nights caution and diets go out the window.
It’s scrumptious and will provide warm sustenance for that cold journey home. Camerino is a real find. I’m surprised Time Out have not discovered it, since they are just across the road from this little Italian gem.
Camerino
16 Percy St,
W1
Tel: 0207 637 9900.