Giardinetto - Albemarle Street, London
Review by Veronica Blake
ALBEMARLE Street has recently been undergoing a renaissance. Lady Thatcher brought traffic to a halt recently when she turned up to officially open Brown’s Hotel, refurbished by Rocco Forte to the tune of £20m.
Master craftsman furniture maker, David Linley, recently opened a shop there and super stylish Italian restaurant Giardinetto confirms that Albemarle is now one of London’s most fashionable streets.
From an unassuming basement restaurant in Charlotte Street, with a reputation for consistently good regional Italian cuisine, Giardinetto has been transformed into this super glamorous Mayfair hot-spot competing with the likes of Cipriani and Cecconi, with the help of a canny venture capitalist who can spot a winner when he sees one.
The ultra-modern smoked glass sliding door glides open to reveal a calm open space of chic understated elegance. The pale Beechwood floors and modern art are offset by a subtle orange light wall sculpture which adds a warmth to this mecca of modernity.
However, the real warmth is in the welcoming Italian staff, Sergio, Carlo and their team, who are helpful without being intrusive.
Sergio guided us through the menu, explaining each dish, while Somelier Carlo, who’s passion for Italian wine is reflected in the excellent list, really should be writing a book on the subject. Rarely have I met someone who’s indepth knowledge of his subject is matched by his genuine enthusiasm.
Carlo recommended a glass to accompany each dish, such as a light white Fruili Veneto, which was the perfect accompaniment to my starter, a traditional Minestrone Genovese style with vegetables and pesto.
The menu reflects the chef’s imaginative artistry. Pasta parcel stuffed with spinach in walnut sauce, and spinach and ham ravioli with prime Scottish bef fillet ragout.
David Linley’s guests, who had joined him for a pre Xmas party hosted by House & Garden, were admiring their purchases, exquisitively crafted cocktail glasses, picture frames and eccentric little keyring/baromoters.
A dull little silver haired man from the nearby American Embassy held a monologue with his colleagues at the next table. His dull DC drawl killed any chance of a conversation with my companion.
Loud bores can be equally as irritating as cigarette smoke to their fellow diners. It is a sign, however, of the restaurant’s success when Embassy staff choose to dine here in an area not short of decent restaurants.
Ladies will love the eclectic range of side orders which strays way beyond the norm of chips, salad or spinach. There’s courgettes sauted with garlic, parsley and white wine.
Spinach with raisins, pine kernels and 12-year matured Modena balsamic vinegar. Steamed vegetables and mashed new potatoes with nutmeg.
As you can see, this chef combines imagination with passion for his art. Italian food does not have to be past reliant and heavy in stodge and cream.
For our main course, Carlo recommended a glass of red from his native Puglia, an area which has grown in reputation for producing some of Italy’s finest wines.
He recommended a sparkling wine from Abruzzo to accompany my friend’s choice of oven baked organic Guinea fowl with beetroot and potato cake with olives, tomato and basil. My choice of braised organic beef in vegetable sauce with roasted potatoes was cooked to perfection.
Giardinetto is that rare specimen, a restaurant you want to return to time and time again in order to sample the many delicious dishes. One visit is just not enough.
Though we didn’t need it we were way too tempted by the description of chocolate and hazelnut bavarois and carrot cake with carrot and cassis sauce. Being really naughty, but hey it was almost Christmas, we succumbed to a sweet Muscat dessert wine from Pantelleria to accompany our dessert.
In keeping with their insightful array of dishes to delight serious foodies, Giardietto serve not only three excellent ranges of coffee from the very best Brasilian and Jamaican variety but also a selction of five sublime teas to round off a delicious meal.
From Kariane, a subtle mix of Japanese Gyokuro leaf lightly brewed. There’s a Chinese and two from Taiwan, one with a hint of vanilla, the other of smoky bitter chocolate.
I think it’s a question of time before Giardinetto is garlanded in awards. I would recommend a visit now before it does. You will not be disappointed. This restaurant is a treat for serious food lovers.
Giardinetto,
39/40 Albermarle St.
W1.
Tel: 020 7493 0982