The Harrison - An undiscovered pub gem
Review by Veronica Blake
THE Harrison is a little gem tucked away in a quiet tree-lined street off Grey’s Inn Road, a short walk from King’s Cross, which has undergone something of a renaissance since the arrival of the Eurostar terminus.
What was once a rundown, seedy red light area has been trasnformed into a hip and happening sought after location where property prices have risen sharply.
The fact that the staff were unaware that Peaches Geldof had named The Harrison as her favourite London pub and sang its praise in ES Magazine speaks volumes about this friendly unassuming pub.
It’s cool without trying to be and welcoming to all, the sign of a good local pub. I chatted with Rosie and Bill, a couple of delightful pensioners, who were reminiscing about the day they met in 1946 at the end of World War Two, while celebrating their 35th wedding anniversary with one of the Harrison’s enormous Sunday roasts and a bottle of wine.
They have lived in the area for over 30 years and were delighted at how sensitively the pub had been renovated four years ago when it was purchased by new owner Paul Michelmore.
Despite the revamp, the pub has lost none of its character. It boasts a wooden floor, lots of light, and comfortable Chesterfield sofas you can flop into and read the papers in front of a real coal fire – thereby providing a warm, welcoming atmosphere.
Barman Dan, who has studied literature and writes poetry, is currently writing a play. He also doubles as DJ and has an eclectic collection. During our visit, we were serenaded by Missisippi Delta jazz and blues.
Live music is featured on Sunday nights, while on Friday night there’s a DJ who plays soul funk and hip hop. Assistant manager Sophie is Swedish and loves working in The Harrison. She would love to run her own pub one day, and you just know she would make a success of it because she’s a natural.
Prices are very reasonable for a pub of this calibre. Though not claiming to be a gastro pub, the food is excellent and the portions enormous. We both asked for doggie bags!
On Sundays, there’s a choice of roast chicken, beef, or nut roast all served with the trimmings for £7.94. The Nut Roast was melt in the mouth delicious and served with a variety of al dente parsnips, roast potatoes, carrots and broccoli.
My friend’s roast beef was so enormous that she could not tackle it and asked for a doggie bag. Lucky Rio I thought!
The home-made apple crumble arrived with a jug of hot custard and was the perfect consistency – crunchy topping with lots of apples!
The weekday lunch menu features a range of healthy, reaonably priced dishes such as homemade chicken and leek pie, stuffed avocado with crayfish, and steak sandwich.
There were no Peaches sightings on our visit… no doubt she had joined her husband for a reunion in Manchester where they were gigging that day.
The house red – a smooth Chilean Cabernet – was a very reasonable £13.50. In fact, most of the wines are under £20. Beer lovers will not be disappointed, either, as the selection is as eclectic as the music. Amstel, Staropramen, Timothy Taylor, Erdinger and London Pride are just a few of the vast range of beers and ales on offer.
I can highly recommend The Harrison for a friendly, laidback Sunday lunch. It’s a place where time slips by, which is always a good sign. We could hardly believe it was 4.30pm when we left!
Perhaps it was the Missisippi Blues or the Chilean wine, but something worked it’s magic and I’ll definitiely be back.
The Harrison
28 Harrison St,
WC1H8JF
Tel: 020 7278 3966