Cefalu's Festival of Gelato
Feature by Veronica Blake
IT’S 11am and I’m beginning to feel a little queasy, having devoured four tubs of Pistachio ice cream, or Gelato as it is referred to here in Cefalu, a pretty fishing village in Sicily just one hour’s drive from Palermo.
No, I’m not having a Bridget Jones moment. The reason for my ice cream binge is strictly in the line of research. However, I could have stopped at one spoonful per tub, but it was far too delicious to resist and, after all, Sicily is the home of Gelato.
I’m actually here to celebrate Sicily’s very first Ice Cream Festival.
Sicilian gelato is justifiably famous around the world. Un Cono is an indispensible accessory to the evening passeggiata and in Sicily it is customary to eat a dollop of gelato with a brioche. I have never seen so many people indulge. Italians munch their way through just under 2 million Euros worth each year.
The best choices are found in gelaterias, where the range is a tribute to the Italian imagination and flair for display.
You’ll find artistic displays of cakes and ices of all colours to capture on camera. Brightly coloured, mouthwatering displays of strawberry, pistachio, lemon, coffee or cassata.
A sign saying ‘produzione proprio’ indicates it is home made on the premises, as opposed to the pre-packed commercial variety made from commercial pastes and syrups.
Gelato is a serious business in Sicily!
“There’s a big difference between synthetic and real gelato. We only use natural products, with neither chemicals or additives,” Signor Pellizzoli, President of the Italian Ice Cream Association informs us.
He is sitting on a podium with the mayor and local dignitaries. Paintings of stern looking Italian generals and former dignitaries line the town hall. The Italian flag and a large Crucifix is on the wall where the Mayor has joined members of the Sicilian chamber of Commerce and local politicians to pontificate on the finer points of real Gelato as opposed to the synthetic variety full of additives and preservatives sitting in the freezer cabinets of our supermarkets worldwide.
Here in Sicily they are a lot more discerning about their gelato. Indeed, it’s a bit like being at a wine tasting. Cefalu ice cream makers share the same passion as winemakers.
For two hours we hear about the importance of using a particular variety of pistachio grown on a hillside outside the town which is crucial to achieving the particular taste.
With that same passion of the winegrowers of Chianti or Friuli they poetically describe their methods, from the quality of the soil to the direction of the wind which helps nurture the particular flavour of the pistachio.
The discussion becomes a little heated when they start to discuss the future of the industry. Sadly, it seems that young people are no longer wanting to enter the business but leaving to go to University to study law or medicine instead, which is causing concern for those involved in this centuries old tradition.
Who will run the business after kids have upped and left for life in the city?
The Arabs introduced Sherbeth, or Sorbetti as it was renamed by the Italians, in the 12th Century. The Sicilians continued the Arabic tradition of mixing ice with fruit juices and freezeing it by burying it in snow in the mountains.
This method was used until around 40 years ago. With the introduction of refrigerators, there was no longer a need for the strenuous steep climb to the top of Mt. Battaglia, 1,870 metres above Cefalu.
The history of gelato stretches back to Bilbical time. There are references in the Bible of Isaac showing Abraham how to make an early form of this confection by mixing milk with snow.
In the 12th Century, the Romans – who were very partial to Sorbetti – served it in silver goblets at banquets. Made from a delicious blend of aromatic flowers or fruit syrup, it was poured over ice made from snow and is similar to the delicious Granitas served in cafes all over Sicily. Even Catherine Di Medici made her own Sorbetti.
There’s a timelessness about Cefalu. Little has changed in centuries. The aura of a traditional fishing port still infuses this medieval town.
Centred around the Norman cathedral, which dominates its main cafe-filled piazza, it also has an evocative fishing quarter and restaurant-crammed harbourside where you can still watch squid and fresh fish being landed.
And from under the town’s gaze right along the coast, four beautiful beaches, the main one of soft sand, provide endless excuses to relax in the sunshine.
The more active will want to delve into Icefall’s fascinating surroundings. Walkers should scale the jagged rock overlooking the town and rove around nearby Madonie National Park, where craggy mountains reach for the sky.
And holidays in Cefalu wouldn’t be complete without visiting the aeons-old Temple of Diana and magnificent ancient site of Tyndaris.
The town has a laidback feel, with not a lot to do than sit at cafes enjoying a gelato, or spend lazy evenings sipping Aperitivos by the seashore. Pick a favourite from the al-fresco bars and seafood restaurants beside the water.
Typically Sicilian, this former fishing village has cobbled streets, beautiful beaches and bucketloads of charm.
Near the ruins of the fortress at the top of the mountain are the remnants of the so-called Temple of Diana, probably a Sicanian structure. Its portal and cut stone reflect Greek and Roman construction and, in fact, the cult of Hercules worshipped here. However, the temple’s foundations are actually far more ancient, dating to the ninth century BC if not somewhat earlier.
Several medieval buildings still stand in the city itself. These include the lavatoio (lavandai), a medieval wash house fed by freshwater springs, and the Osteria Magna (Great Guesthouse), where King Roger stayed during his visits to Cefalù.
High in the Madonie Mountains nearby, some 15 kilometers away, is Gibilmana Sanctuary. The church itself is unremarkable but the wooded area surrounding it is beautiful.
Castelbuono is a mountain town about 25 kilometers from Cefalu and is well worth a visit for the stunning views of the ocean and some of the best examples of mediaeval architecture in Italy. The castle was once owned by the Ventimiglia family, feudal lords of several towns in the area.
Like Caccamo, Castelbuono (literally “good castle”) has vestiges of medieval architecture, but it’s castle which was modified somewhat over the centuries, is usually closed to the public.
There are some good restaurants in the town centre and near the shore that offer seafood and other local specialties, and a number of pizzerias.
Returning to Cefalu, sitting on the outdoor terrace of one of the waterfront restaurants provides the perfect way to pass an evening.
Al Porticciolo is a charming little ristoranti with a wood fired oven which creates a warm welcome on chilly evenings. The Pizzas are delicious.
As the cathedral and most museums are closed in the afternoon from 1 to 4, this is a perfect time to eat or go sunbathing.
Although finding parking space can be difficult at times, Cefalù is conveniently located on the Palermo-Messina railway and most (though not all) trains traveling this line stop here. The train station is just a few steps from the centre of town.
Anyone who has seen the Oscar-winning 1989 movie Cinema Paradiso will recognise the quaint backstreets of Cefalu, which are still like one big film set.
Cefalu is also an Archeolgist’s paradise. In fact, there were a group of them on my RyanAir flight as well as schoolchildren all eager to explore the ruins of the Temple of Diana, built between the 9th and 4th centuries BC.
Residents are not generally known for their party spirit, so nightlife in the town is pretty low key. At sunset, they love to enjoy their passeggiata with their families, or sit at the gelaterias. It seems to be a way of life here. Rarely have I seen so many people eating ice cream.
There are a few lively bars, including an English-style pub which plays rock music. Attractions outside the town include the beautiful Parco Naturale Regionale delle Madonie, the ruins of ancient Tyndaris, which date back to 1500 BC, and Santo Stefano di Camastra, famous for its ceramics.
So, if you want to experience the real timeless Sicily with clean beaches, hills for great hiking and, of course, the opportunity to eat the best gelato in the world, then you’re sure to love Cefalu.
Get Ryanair from Stanstead to Palermo from £10.