Santorini, Greece
Feature by Lizzie Guilfoyle
ALTHOUGH there are officially 1,425 Greek islands, only 166 are inhabited and on the majority of those, goats and sheep far out-number people – or so I’m told. But one thing is certain, no two islands are completely the same. Which brings me to Santorini, possibly the loveliest and most fascinating of them all.
One of the Cyclades Island group, Santorini, or Thira as it’s sometimes known, is crescent shaped with what appear to be two smaller islands – Thirasia and Aspronisi – enclosing a vast bay, in the centre of which are two barren islets. But Santorini was once round and incorporated both Thirasia and Aspronisi, as well as the bay and its two islets. So what happened?
In 1500BC, a violent volcanic eruption sank the whole central and western part of the island. The beautiful bay in which cruise ships now anchor is a giant caldera (the collapsed crater of the volcano), the largest of its kind on earth; the two barren islets, the summit of the newly formed volcano – Nea Kameni.
The eruption also generated a mega tsunami that geologists now believe signalled the end of the Minoan civilization on the nearby island of Crete. As for the inhabitants of Akrotiri in the SW of Santorini, no one knows. That they escaped the city is certain – no valubles and only one skeleton (a pig’s) have ever been found – but where they went is a mystery.
All of which gives rise to the hypothesis that Santorini might well be the lost city of Atlantis.
To look down on the caldera from the cliff top town of Thira is truly amazing; to see it from sea level is unforgettable. Sheer cliffs, exposing starkly-etched volcanic layers, rise up to 1,000 feet above the wine dark sea; while the white-washed buildings in the little towns of Thira, Imerovigli and Oia glint like newly fallen snow in the dazzling sunlight.
Equally impressive, and well-worth the climb, is the view from the summit of Nea Kameni. A cinder track encircles the crater’s rim where, occasionally, a whiff of sulphurous gas reminds you that the volcano is merely dormant and not extinct. In fact, it last erupted in 1950. However, earthquakes pose a far more serious threat to Santorini. The most recent, in 1956, caused considerable damage, particularly in the town of Oia.
Oia though, is the ideal place to see one of Santorini’s renowned sunsets. But stay after the sun has dipped below the horizon for the spectacular after-glow. Better still, combine the experience with supper in one of Oia’s cliff-top tavernas and make it an evening to remember.
For all its beauty, Santorini is not the place for anyone seeking a conventional beach holiday. There are beaches, of course, but don’t expect white or golden sand. The three major beaches – Perissa, Kamari and Monolithos, all on the eastern shore – are black volcanic sand.
From Kamari, you can take the bus to the summit of Mount Vouno and explore the ruins of Ancient Thira. In particular, look out for the carvings on the stones of the Temple of Artemidoros – the eagle of Zeus, the lion of Apollo and the dolphin of Poseidon – all still clearly visible. Less distinct but still discernable, is the carved phallic symbol on – yes, you’ve guessed it – the wall of a brothel. The small amphitheatre is also worth finding.
And if you’re really into archeology, the excavations at Akrotiri are not to be missed. Still being unearthed is a flourishing Bronze Age city closely linked to Minoan Crete. As well as innumerable pottery items, visitors can see houses – some multi-storied – with stone stairways, fireplaces, window and door openings, even toilets and drainage pipes. However, the lovely frescoes are merely replicas, the real ones have been shipped to Athens where they’re now on display in the National Archeological Museum.
Santorini is a magical blend of old and new – of blue-domed churches and striking bell towers (no pun intended); of vineyards unlike any you may have seen before, the vines close to the ground and basket-shaped, protection against the island’s strong winds; of brilliant geraniums and pelagonia; of a silent volcano that shaped the region’s history – an island like no other.