The Isle of Capri
Feature by Lizzie Guilfoyle
SITUATED in the Bay of Naples, just five kilometres from Punta Campanella on the Sorrento Peninsular, Capri is an island of outstanding natural beauty. Even today, it remains largely unspoilt by the voracious demands of tourism.
Of course, you might not think so if you’re one of the thousand or so sightseers who, in summer, arrive daily at the Marina Grande, the larger and by far the busiest of the island’s two ports. But leave it and the two small towns of Capri and Anacapri behind, and you may well find yourself virtually alone.
However, to truly appreciate the island’s beauty, stay just a little bit longer (no, make that a lot longer) than a single day, as I did in the last summer of the old millennium.
Home then and for two glorious weeks was the 3-star, family run Hotel San Michele in Anacapri, where guests like myself could enjoy unparalled views of the Bay of Naples – a sight that prompted one hardened journalist to write that when he saw it for the first time, he thought he’d died and gone to heaven.
However, for me to try and describe it would be a folly. Instead, I’ll leave it to Axel Munthe, the Swedish doctor, author and humanitarian who built his home in Anacapri and who wrote so eloquently in his best-selling book The Story of San Michele:
“The whole Bay of Naples lay at our feet encircled by Ischia, Procida, the pine-clad Posilipo, the glittering white line of Naples, Vesuvius with its rosy cloud of smoke, the Sorrento plain sheltered under Monte Sant’ Angelo and further away the Apennine mountains still covered with snow.”
Of course, Vesuvius no longer has that “rosy cloud of smoke” and in summer, is all too frequently obscured by a heat-induced haze but see it after a storm when the air is sparkling and fresh, and you will have no doubt as to its true origin. And if you think it looks benign, then think again. Vesuvius is one of the world’s most dangerous volcanoes – as the cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum will attest.
You can, however, still climb the seven hundred and seventy seven Phoenician steps to Munthe’s home, the beautiful Villa San Michele, which is open to the public and well worth a visit. Elegant in its simplicity, it’s none the less filled with invaluable treasures from the past, not least among them, the granite Egyptian sphynx in its loggia overlooking the bay. Stroke its flank, make a wish and it’s sure to come true – I promise!
From Anacapri, you can also take the chair lift to the very top of 589 metre high Monte Solaro for another breathtaking view – this time, of Capri itself with its clusters of white sugar cube houses; the three precipitous Faraglioni, perfect miniatures from so great a height; the ruins of Villa Jovis still clinging to the rock of 335 metre high Monte Tiberio; and on the distant horizon, the Italian mainland.
But if you want to be alone, really alone, take the path next to the chair lift station in Anacapri. It will bring you to two lookouts (or belvederes) – one overlooking the pink stuccoed lighthouse at Punta Carena; the other with a bird’s eye view of the Faraglioni. Along the way, you may chance upon the odd lizard or two or maybe even a cat seeking shelter from the sun but not a single day tripper.
Apart from its natural beauty, Capri has much to offer scholars of ancient history; in particular, of the Emperor Tiberius who lived the last eleven years of his life on the island. And most notable of the many ruins is the aforementioned Villa Jovis. Accessible only by foot, the climb is well-worth the effort – as much for spell-binding views en route as for the ruin itself. As for Tiberius – genuine miscreant or the victim of slanderous allegation (and there are exponents of each in equal measure) – that’s for you to decide.
For those who might find the confines of an island restricting, there are regular ferries to Sorrento, Naples, Positano and Amalfi, as well as to the neighbouring volcanic island of Ischia with its thermal baths and hot springs. You can also visit the Blue Grotto, as infamous for its exorbitant entrance fee as it’s famous for its surreal beauty. But if it’s value for money you’re looking for, combine your visit as I did with a boat trip round the island – to alluring grottoes accessible only by sea; through the natural arch of the Faraglioni; beneath perpendicular cliffs so high they seem to touch the sky.
However, to see the Blue Grotto at its very best, plan your visit for the morning while the cliff face is still bathed in sunshine. Then, light enters the grotto through what was originally an entrance, now submerged, and is reflected through the water and onto the ceiling which sparkles with crystalline fire. The water itself is incredibly blue and seemingly transparent, turning everything it touches to silver. It’s not only worth every Euro but also the discomfort of having to sit crouched on the bottom of the boat while it negotiates the ridiculously tiny entrance that was once a window.
On the negative side, Capri is expensive with, for example, a Cappuccino costing considerably more than on the mainland. But shopping is a delight, with goods ranging from tasteful ceramics to designer handbags – think Gucci, Fendi and the like. Beaches too, are virtually non-existent but hotels invariably have pools and sunbathing on the rocks of the Marina Piccola and the Baths of Tiberius is extremely popular.
Capri is, without a doubt, a beautiful island and can be explored quite easily on foot. However, be warned and plan in advance, for with a little forethought you can avoid uphill climbs in soaring temperatures. Similarly, on some routes it pays to walk down and take the bus back.
And did you know that mythical eons ago, Vesuvius was a young man who fell in love with a beautiful nymph? Sadly, she rejected his love and jumped into the sea to avoid his advances, becoming the beautiful island we know today as Capri. Vesuvius meanwhile, beside himself with anger, breathed fire and ashes until so large, he became rooted to the spot, his beloved Capri forever within his sight.
For lovers; lovers of beauty, history and myth, Capri is an absolute must.