Review: Veronica Blake
Café Lazeez was an oasis of calm on a
busy Friday night in Soho. Upstairs, the bar of the Soho Theatre
club was bustling in contrast to the zen-like tranquillity of
the North Indian restaurant in the basement below.
Cosy, candelit and calm. Providing the perfect antidote for Soho’s
stressed out film execs and a lot cheaper than a flight to Cannes.
We were greeted with a smile. The service is charming and our
waiter explained the menu and gave some personal recommendations,
which I wish I had taken.
I opted for the more western-style Duck Breast with apricots
in brown onion sauce with saffron rice and ‘nigella’
vegeatables. As mouthwatering as it seemed on the menu the reality
was less than appetising. The duck was too tough and undercooked
for my liking.
Our starer of vegetarian platter was a meal in itself and does
not leave much appetite for a main course. A vast array of little
dishes including dhal of the day, raita, basmati rice and naan.
My friend was delighted with her
choice of Sea Bass.
Our waiter recommended some traditional North Indian dishes -
spinach with red chilli flakes, which was delicious, as was the
Peshawari Naan with coconut, mango, almonds, and raisins. Truly
His wine recommendation was also excellent, a reasonably priced
Spanish, one of the best Riojas I’ve tasted.
The mood is very relaxed at Café Lazeez . There’s
none of the usual West End-style '9pm and your table has to be
The staff are friendly and could not be more helpful. They’ve
introduced fruit flavoured Marrakesh style Hubble Bubbles which
add an authentic Arabian nights experience.
However, I would recommend you stick to the more traditional
Indian dishes which really are delicious.
Café Lazeez is at the cultural heartbeat of Soho.
The Soho Theatre showcases the work of our best young writers.
On our way out, we met Pete Postelthwaite, who was enjoying a
celebratory drink with the cast of A Night of the Dogs,
winner of the Verity Bargate Award.
They invited us to join them for a drink and a fascinating discussion
on the state of theatre today. What better way to round off a
great night out in Soho?
21 Dean St. W1
Tel: 020 7434 9393
Set meals (noon to 8pm) £7.95 Brasserie.
Restaurant 2 courses £12