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Review by Veronica Blake
DANCE has always been a passion of mine. I've never had a lesson
in my life, I think you're either born with a sense of rhythm
or not. Lately, I've been looking for a place to dance salsa,
with great difficulty however.
There's certainly no shortage of salsa clubs or bars in London.
But the snag is they're all offering classes. For those of us
who just want to let rip on the dance floor there's really nothing.
Unless, of course, you're prepared to sign up to some ridiculous
course of 'Beginner's', 'Intermediate' or 'Advanced' Salsa classes,
then you're not going to have the opportunity to dance. And even
then it's so packed with after work secretaries, 'happy hour'
boozers, or lonely hearts looking to meet Mr Right that there
really is no space to actually dance.
Salsa is now a big business industry, providing a living for
a lot of people. Which is great for all those Cuban Casanovas
and their Bulgarian assistants whose grasp of English is as bad
as their dancing; while students struggle to understand garbled
instructions above the thumping beat of Johnny Pacheco on timbales
and trumpet.
I really do not want some playboy from Santiago di Cuba in white
suit and gold chain shouting 'Un, Dos, Tres' at me over and over
when I can dance as well if not better than him, and most certainly
better than the lanky Svetlana, whose rigid moves are more Bulgarian
military march than Havana dance hall.
So salsa classes provide these Casanovas with a living and that's
great. No doubt Fidel is delighted to have offloaded him for the
$4,000 exit visa fee to some hapless Hausfrau from Heidelberg
who's left for some younger model a few months after the wedding.
It's the same way that he solved the crime problem by opening
his prisons and dispatching inmates to Miami.
These Ernestos and Umbertos can be found on any night of the
week in Salsa clubs, bars, community and church halls teaching
salsa to Bridget Jones lonely hearts, secretaries and divorcees
who have as much chance of meeting Mr Right as Bush has of winning
the Global Green Award.
They will be whisked around the dance floor by Ernesto or Svetlana,
or Dave from accounts on the pull. Sadly, salsa bars in London
are nothing more than an industry for the Cuban playboy or a glorified
meat market.
So after years in search of a decent salsa space, I was delighted
to discover Floridita this week. Not a salsa
teacher or frilly shirted playboy in sight. Just a live band playing
the most wonderful Charanga and Son in as an authentic a setting
as you'd find this side of Santiago di Cuba.
The sweet aroma of freshly rolled cigars fragrant from the dew
covered valleys of Pinar del Rio combined with a Mohito and the
dulcet strains of Yolanda was as intoxicating as a night in Havana,
and next best thing to Casa de la Trova, Calle Heredia on a Saturday
night. The perfect antidote to a wet Monday night in Soho.
CUBA-ret, which runs from Monday to Wednesday, features the best
in Cuban music, food and dance. You receive a welcoming glass
of champagne, a five course tasting menu, while you're serenaded
by some of Cuba's finest musicians.
If you're coy about hitting the dance floor, professional dancers
Janet and Rafael break the ice by performing a dazzling display.
However, after a couple of Mohitos you really won't need much
encouragement.
Chef Andrew Rose has devised a five course tasting menu as part
of the CUBA-ret experience. His menu extends to include pre-revolution
dishes beyond the staple fare of beans and rice, pork or chicken.
Embracing Spanish and Caribbean influences, it's light years
away from the American interpretation of Cuban food. I've had
some truly vile meals in Miami, notably at Yucca which continues
to garner glowing reviews in magazines and papers, God knows why.
No doubt more to do with their aggressive p.r. director than any
hint of culinary excellence.
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Tempted though I was by the Borlotti bean soup, since I knew
I wanted to dance my socks off I opted for the lighter snapper
ceviche, coconut and lime, with chickory and rocket salad. The
list of nine appetisers range from octopus and squid to chargrilled
lobster or peppers with cheese and anchovies. The two course set
menu for £25 is served between 5.30pm and 7.30pm.
The wine list is imaginative. We chose a small bottle of excellent
Lebanese Chateau Muzar which was the perfect accompaniment to
the Floridita speciality of spit roast pig with garlic, lime and
oregano. Pork is not a meat I ever eat, but something about Floridita's
authentic Cuban ambience makes pork essential to the overall experience.
My friend said her chargrilled chicken with courgettes, pine
nuts and raisins was delicious. We scanned the dessert list of
mouthwatering variety, of banana and toffee tart, coconut creme
caramel, baked lime and sultana cheesecake and watermelon sorbet.
Tempting as it all was, we decided to resist and hit the dance
floor instead. Our Dutch courage fuelled by the Mohitos and a
tot of seven year old Havana Club, we brazenly shimmied to the
salsa beat realizing we were the only two and in full view of
the restaurant full of diners.
However, others followed our lead and before long the dance floor
was as packed as Casa del La Trova or the Nacional on Saturday
night.
Sir Terence Conran has a real passion for Cuba and it shows.
The extent to which he has endeavoured to capture an authentic
spirit of Cuba not just in decor but food, music and drink is
second to none. There are hundreds of varieties of rum and equally
as many cigars.
Adjacent to Floridita is Casa del Habano, a little shrine to
some of Cuba's finest rums and cigars. The manager andrew's passion
for his subject is evident.
He's an expert on cigars and published a book on the subject.
Scenes of Cuban life have been lovingly captured by some of the
world's leading photographers. Prints are for sale.
If you want to recreate the Cuban experience at home you can
also purchase a cocktail shaker, cigars and Floridita CDs. Hemingway
afficionados can avail themselves of a Master Class in how to
make the perfect Mohito, roll the perfect cigar or master salsa.
However, I can assure you the dance floor will not be hogged
by a horde of Bridget Jones lonely hearts, Wayne from accounts
or the inevitable Cuban Casanova. Following your meal, the dance
floor is yours for the taking to trip the light fantastic to the
strains of Cuba's finest timbaleros until 2am, Monday to Wednesday
and 3am, Thursday to Saturday.
Floridita has a real love affair with Cuba. The passion, enthusiasm
and affection for this beautiful island shines through. From the
genuine care shown by the manager, Brian, and his wonderful team
to the delight that the musicians show at the opportunity to perform
the music they love.
We made sure to purchase the Floridita CD before we left. We
wanted to recapture the Floridita experience at home.
Today we hear the word democracy being bandied about. Hemingway,
who produced some of his finest work when living in Cuba, once
remarked: "If you want to understand democracy, spend less
time in the library with Plato and more time in the buses with
people."
I agree with him. Having traveled around Cuba by bus, rarely
will you meet more friendly people. They smile a lot, welcome
you to their homes. They may have little materially but they are
rich in the spirit of humanity.
I would add to Hemingway's sentiment by saying spend more time
on the dance floor. Which is what I intend to do. You can capture
some of that Cuban magic at Floridita nightly and it's cheaper
than a flight to Havana.
Floridita
100 Wardour Street
London
W1F 0TN
Telephone: 020 7314 4000 or visit the website www.floriditalondon.com
Nearest Tube: Tottenham Court Road
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