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Review: Tom Quinn
ONE of the first things that strikes you on entering a Larrik
establishment is its expansive space and light.
This micro-chain of highly reputable bar/restaurant/general meeting
places has been stamping its identity on central London's social
map for the past three or four years;
now counting areas such as Marylebone, Putney Bridge and Crouch
End among its territories.
All appear to have occupied grand corner buildings thereby maximising
their airy, comfortable and relaxing ambience.
The polished wooden furnishings sit well together with expansive
leather sofas, unintrusive eclectic music, board games, Avatameo
nudes and excellent gastro-pub dishes that prove conducive with
a constant amiable atmosphere.
My local Larrik is located off Edgeware Road, at Crawford Place,
Marylebone, but all Larriks maintain an aesthetic continuity as
a mark of their ongoing success.
As well as popular continental lagers, bitters and ales are also
available, but the healthy and enticing wine list caters for all
tastes.
Chenin, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc from South Africa, Italy
and
Australasia all feature, while in the red corner Chilean Merlot,
Valpolicella and Rioja can provide the beginnings of an enjoyable
afternoon or evening.
Champagne is also an option for the more adventurous!
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With an understanding nod to the variety of patronage, meals
range from light salads (grilled goat's cheese, caprese, chicken
Caeser from between £5-7) to Sirloin or salmon steaks served
with a variety of rocket, rice or grilled vegetables, and priced
around the £10 mark.
Owing to much of the trade coming from the more hip-minded business
lunchers during the week, and the energetic bright young things
at evenings and weekends, the excellent baguettes and ciabattas
are a sound choice.
They range from Italian meatball, Cajun chicken, Cumberland sausage
and ever-generous steak, to all manner of variations - and the
Specials Board is constantly changing.
The Marylebone branch has recently introduced a Fresh Juice Bar
for the
more health conscious, or you could cheat with the wide selection
of spirits that are stocked at the well-kept bars.
While we're on the subject, the level of service is refreshingly
friendly and usually quick, which sets The Larrik apart from other
'top-end', larger chains.
Aaron, the Marylebone manager, is always open to suggestions
(of the
clean variety, naturally), particularly concerning private parties
and other social events. But book in advance.
As I said from the start, The
Larrik's reputation keeps growing.
Address: 32, Crawford Place, London, W1H 5NN. Tel: 020 7723
0066.
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