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Review: Veronica Blake
AN AURA of wholesomeness wafts over you as you enter Villandry.
The Marylebone clampers were out in force but Villandry was as
serene as a stroll through a Dorset bluebell meadow in late Spring.
There’s a well scrubbed healthiness of a farmer’s
market or Women’s Institute Fete in the gourmet store in
front of the restaurant.
Barrels of crisp rosy apples. Terracota bowls of plump shiny
olives. A marble topped charcuterie bar laden with mouthwatering
cheeses, chorizos, saucisson and pates. All delicious, healthy
fare. Villandry is a GM and chemical and definitely a turkey twizzler
free zone.
The wholesome theme extends to the solid Shaker-style décor.
Stone flooring, copper wall lights and rustic wooden tables and
chairs.
Where else would you hear a diner question the waiter about the
quality of soil when ordering a bottle of wine? He charmingly
recommended a robust pesticide free Puglian Red while informing
the diner of the virginal quality of the Puglian soil currently
producing some of the best wine around.
Villandry is more Soil Association convention than 'Ladies who
Lunch' type restaurant. Lots of gentlemen in well-worn tweed suits
and sensible handmade Church shoes engaged in intelligent discussions
with Laura Ashley clad buxom ladies.
No doubt pillars of their local community who campaign against
four-wheel drives, motorways and healthy school dinners.
Hell’s Kitchen may have peaked at 7 million, and Celebrity
Wrestling may have been pulled due to abysmal viewing figures,
but here the pressing topic was the effect that chemical and nutrient
deprivation has on the rise in obesity and the shocking statistic
of 400 pesticides being used by farmers, and the even more alarming
figure of 500 chemicals currently used in food processing.
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No such worries here, since Villandry
is a chemical and pesticide free zone. My sweet potato coconut
and coriander soup bore testimony to the fact that simplicity
is best. I’ve never understood why chefs over tamper with
food, when less is always best.
Fresh seasonal ingredients do not need to be dressed up in lots
of creams and artificial flavouring. There’s an eclectic
range of starters.
Beer battered monkfish and broccoli served with aioli. Scallops
with marinated green tomatoes, basil and toasted ciabatta. Shredded
pork with enoki mushroom and noodle salad with coriander, lemon
and soy dressing.
The house wine is reasonably priced and good value and the wine
list reveals an intelligent selection than spans the globe.
Main courses are equally healthy and hearty. Roast rump of lamb
with cous cous, chilli and coriander, Fillet of Sea Bass with
lentils and sorrel.
You’ll be reassured to know that the wholesome theme does
not extend to the deserts.
There’s a decidedly naughty moist Chocolate cake with Crème
Chantilly and Apple and Blackberry Pie with Crème Anglais
and Spotted Dick covered in Crème Anglais, but I was under
no illusion that ‘crème’ was any less calorific
than cream.
If you can restrain yourself from the deserts, I would recommend
the Cheese Plate which harks back to the days when cheese tasted
and smelt like cheese and not the plastic, cling-filmed sorry
excuse that passes itself off as cheese on the supermarket shelves.
The plate contains a selection of five, including the fruity,
melt in your
Mouth Organic Godminster. An earthy Cashel Blue, a fresh sheep’s
milk Brebiou and a delicate Reblochon.
Just a short walk to Theatreland, between 6pm and 7pm, Villandry
offers a 3-course Theatre Menu for £17.50. It is excellent
value for food of this quality.
Villandry,
170, Gt. Portland St.
W.1.
Tel: 0207 31 3131
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