Papillion
Review by Veronica Blake
IF THERE were a category for ‘London restaurant with the longest wine list’ in the Guinness Book of Records then it would have to go to Papillion which has 580 different wines.
What is more impressive is that Papillion’s sommelier and manager Philippe Messey is an expert on each one of them. He’s been tasting them all since January. Monsieur Messey is one of London’s most respected sommeliers. He’s worked with Oliver Peyton’s restaurants, and also at L’Etranger before becoming a partner in Papillion.
The other partner is Soren Jessen whose name is synonymous with stylish restaurants. His 1 Lombard St. is popular with the banking colleagues of his former employer Goldman Sachs.
Papillion is the epitome of Parisian chic, like an elegant Montmartre upmarket Bistro, all crisp linen polished parquet, large oval windows and Parisian lamps. All very appealing to the Chelsea and South Ken set of Brompton Cross.
This is a ladies who lunch territory, conveniently placed opposite Jospeh’s boutique and a few doors away from Daphne’s and a short 4×4 drive to the beauty parlours and spas of Beauchamp Place, Harvey Nicholls and Harrods.
Papillion was packed with well groomed perfectly manicured blonde ladies and their Asser and Turnbull and Hackett clad boyfriends pondering the never ending wine list on a wet Monday night. This is the hunting shooting fishing fraternity who relish the featured Foie Gras, Pigeon, hare, and pig’s trotter wrapped in pigskin and Escargot frits (fried snails).
Monsieur Messey may have spent decades in London but his accent is still as rich and as French as the ingredients scattered across the menu. He recommended a Cotes de Nuit Village, Clos du Chapeau Domaine de L’Arlot 2002 red, which was an “exceptional year for theez Burgundy grape”, he said in ees best Inspector Clouseau voice.
“Eet has a unique character that develops wiz ze room tempretaure” he assured us and was one of his recommendations from the three dozen styles of that particular grape served by the glass.
For the Knightsbridge ladies who lunch there’s a page on the menu dedicated to salads. After all they do not want to be traded in for next year’s stock should they develop a few extra kilos from all that Terrine of Tournedos with Foie gras.
Instead they can toy with a Bourguignone ..a frisee salad with pan fried bacon and snail in strawberry vinegar dressing, or Provencal, mixed leaves anchovies seasonal vegetables and tapenade dressing.
The lunch menu is a reasonably priced £14.50 for two courses and includes dishes such as pan fried salmon with trout sausge and spring vegetables and rhubarb tart with vanilla ice cream.
Sadly there were no such delights on the dinner menu. Having spent at least 15 minutes wading through the wine list as heavy as a volume of War and Peace with 580 different varieties we opted for Monsieur Messey’s recommendation.
The warm Burgundy was the perfect accompaniment to the wild mushroom croquette, with parsnip puree and rocket salad. However I was very disappointed with my selection of fish, bream with beurre d’hotel emulsion, which tasted salty and was in a creamy saltier sauce.
We were fascinated by the drama erupting at the next table. A very cross Blonde Normandie Keith type in a size six Roland Mouret and Jimmy Choo’s was ticking off a very subdued Clark Kent lookalike in hush puppies and Ferragamo jacket.
Like a naughty schoolboy he took it, perhaps a renactment of Nanny scolding him in the nursery we thought. She seemed to be pressing all the right buttons and a step closer to a lifelong Harrod’s account, a 4 wheel drive, Brompton Oratory wedding, and chalet in Cloisters.
Papillion will do well in Brompton Cross, it’s conveniently placed for the ladies who love to shop and to lunch and it offers the classic nursery school dinners that their Hedge Fund hubbies feel comfortable with when brokering a deal.
Where better to ponder the merits of the $20 Billion merger between the New York Stock Exchange and France’s Euronext than over a Filet d’Agneu en Croute at Papillion, washed down with a St. Emmillion Chateau Haut Badette ‘92 Grand Cru Classe.
Papillion,
96 Draycott Ave.
SW3. 3AD
Tel: 0207 225 2555.
Open Daily 12 noon 12 midnight