The Camden Brasserie
Review by Veronica Blake
IN AN area of London which is firmly on the tourist map it’s surprising there are so few decent restaurants in Camden.
Camden Market is among the country’s top tourist attractions yet the area rarely appears in food guides and is certainly not renown for good food.
That’s why the Camden Brasserie stands out as being one of the few restaurants which locals and visitors can rely on. The Brasserie has been as much a Camden landmark as the market itself.
Famous for its pomme frites, a favourite of Stelios apparently. The owner of Easyjet, can regularly be seen here entertaining his business clients. His offices are nearby – the sleek modern glass fronted building which is also home to Wagamama in Jamestown Road. Alistair Campbell, another local, is also a regular.
For over two decades the Brasserie was as much a Camden landmark as the market. Situated on the bridge on the lock, after 23 years it was beginning to show its age.
It’s been completely revamped with a modern, bright open feel while retaining its rustic charm. Pastel colours, wooden floors and plans and paintings give the restaurant a homely feel and offset the sleek ultra-modern glass fronted design.
No sightings of Stelios on our visit, but it was buzzing with lots of local staff from Camden’s trendy design and film production companies.
My friend’s eyes lit up when she spotted red cabbage on the menu. A childhood favourite of hers, she listed the ingredients for the perfect version as passed on by her mother.
Our waitress was charming. A Keira Knightly lookalike, she could have been a model or ‘resting’ actress. Despite it being her first day, she was knowledgeable about the menu and recommended the specials. She also ensured my lentil soup arrived without the dollop of cream and it was delicious.
The menu, in keeping with tradition, reflects the Brasserie’s loyal customer’s favourites, including the ever popular French classics such as pommes frites, soup a l’onion and filet steak.
The chilled house white from Chile was excellent and very good value considering the quality.
The fish of the day was cod, braised with vegetables. My friend said her red cabbage was as good as her mum’s and gave the thumbs up to her warm duck salad with cucumber and plum sauce.
Care has gone into the preparation of the dishes. Our waitress could not have been more helpful while not being intrusive.
I would recommend a visit to the Camden Brasserie when you are next in Camden. Owner Karen’s philosophy of creating a family atmosphere is as apparent today as it was 23 years ago when she first introduced pomme frites and steak au poivre to Camden.
The Camden Brasserie,
9, Jamestown Road,
NW1 7BW
Tel: 020 7482 2777
Two courses with wine £25