The Grand Canyon
Feature by Lizzie Guilfoyle
AWESOME is the word most commonly used to describe the Grand Canyon and awesome it most certainly is. Equally awesome are its statistics – 277 miles long, up to 18 miles wide and one mile deep. And it is, of course, one of the natural wonders of the world. No surprise then that it came top in a recent BBC poll – 100 Places To See Before You Die.
Sculpted over a period of four to six million years by the Colorado river, its tributaries and other forces of erosion, the formations that fill this great gorge reveal the ancient geological substratum of the Earth’s crust like nowhere else on the planet – in black and white, not a particularly inspiring prospect. The reality, however, couldn’t be more different. As far as the eye can see, red, grey and ochre cliffs descend in gigantic stepped terraces and climb in towers, buttes and mesas of mountainous proportions. And depending upon the play of light and shadow, so the colours change.
Of the four million people who visit the Grand Canyon every year, the majority stop at the South Rim which has a wide-range of activities on offer. With a number of trails to suit all ages and abilities, hiking is by far the the most popular. Easiest, are the rim trails, all of which afford spectacular views and fascinating points of interest.
It was on a warm September afternoon in 2004 that I walked, somewhat leisurely I must admit, from Yavapai Observation Station to Bright Angel Lodge. On one side of the narrow path which in places wound perilously close to the edge, was the Canyon itself, on the other woodland. It was amazingly peaceful – no cars, buses or even bikes and very few people – just nature at its grandest and most beautiful.
For the more adventurous, there are trails into the canyon itself, which range from steep to very steep and should only be undertaken after careful planning. More adventurous still are the mule rides which, to avoid disappointment, must be booked in advance. And there is, of course, white water rafting on the Colorado itself – no better place for those adrenalin highs…..
Flight-seeing by small plane or helicopter is also extremely popular and worth every dollar. It was something I did on my first visit to the Canyon in 1996 and it’s something I’ve never forgotten. Conditions were perfect – clear skies and virtually no wind – so perhaps I was lucky because warnings of air pockets that played havoc with stomach contents proved totally groundless. In fact, I was able to sit back and, for the first time, fully appreciate the sheer scale of it all.
The Grand Canyon NP also supports a wide range of wildlife – in total, 88 species of mammal although visitors are likely to encounter only rock squirrel, chipmunk, bob cat and mule deer. Mountain lion, gray fox, whitetale prairie dog, elk, desert bighorn and black bear are more elusive; as indeed, are banded gecko, scorpion, lizzard and rattle snake, I’m pleased to say.
As for birds, 315 species have been recorded in the park, with 136 species known to nest there, among them red-tailed hawk, Gambel’s quail, hairy woodpecker and canyon wren. Wildflowers too, are common. And visitors are encouraged to respect all these natural wonders.
The Grand Canyon is situated in northwest Arizona, in an exposed high-desert region, which means the weather can change very quickly. Summer storms are not uncommon and with so much exposed rock, lightning poses a very real danger. While in the Canyon itself, flash floods are a particular hazard. And the 5,000’ elevation difference between rim and river means that in summer, rim temperatures in the 70s to 80s, can exceed 110 degrees at the canyon bottom.
There is a range of accomodation in the park to suit all pockets – from designated campsites to the luxurious El Tovar Hotel. I stayed in one of the four lodges – Maswik Lodge at the southwest end of the Grand Canyon Village area and just five minutes, by foot, from the rim itself. My room was clean, modern and comfortable – ideal, in fact, for the budget-minded traveller.
I left for the last time as the sun sank slowly in the western sky. Night had already claimed the inner canyon, yet the tallest buttes and towers were still infused with colour. Overhead, three California condors rode the thermals on lazy outstretched wing, while white smoke still billowed from a controlled fire far away on the North Rim.